CARDWELL to MISSOURI HEADWATERS STATE PARK
(JEFFERSON RIVER)
June 3rd (Day 1)
 
  • On the water about 10:00 am
  • Scouted and portaged the old Hale Diversion Dam
  • Paddled passed spot where Sacajawea was captured by Hidatsa when she was a child
  • Crew change at Williams Bridge FAS (1:20 pm; 17.4 mi./28.1 km)
  • Had to paddle a short distance up the Madison River to get to the take out
  • Take out at Missouri Headwaters State Park (4:40 pm; 18.6 mi./30.0 km)
  • Total day's distance: 36 mi./58.1 km
  • Camped near a butte that Lewis and Clark said would make an ideal place for a fort
  • After dinner, Kris, Sharon and Bill found the oldest geocache in Montana

First day map

We planned a relatively late start today as we needed a little extra time for final organization and packing of gear into three vehicles. Once at the put-in, it also took a little longer to unload and rig the canoes for the first time on this trip. Mighty fine views of the Jefferson River welcomed us. (Scene above is looking upstream.)

It was great to be back on the water in the big 25-ft, 6-man North Canoes. It did not take long for everyone to be back in the groove with synchronized strokes and smooth switches. Typically, North Canoes are paddled at around 45 strokes a minute. To maintain this rate over a long period of time, you need to switch sides every minute or so. Everyone has to switch at the same time...the center seats being four feet wide. Otherwise, there is a good chance the canoe will capsize.


Shortly before the crew change, we passed the area where the young Sacajawea was kidnapped from her Shoshone campsite by the Hidatsa tribe. Years later she was able to identify the area when she returned with the Lewis and Clark expedition.

The Jefferson River was also the site of an event that made another member of the Corp of Discovery a legend in his own right. John Colter came back to this area after the Corp returned home. While somewhere on the Jefferson River, he and his partner, John Potts, were captured by the Blackfeet. Potts was killed but Colter was given a chance to run for his life. Stripped naked, Coulter escaped. Still naked and barefoot, he walked 250 miles to Fort Lisa on the Yellowstone River.
You could not ask for a better initial day...great weather, beautiful and varied scenery, and wildlife. It was capped off with passing by and camping at points of historical significance.

When we reached Old Hale Diversion Dam, we stopped on river right to scout the rapids. It was unanimous that for these water conditions, we portage the dam. After lining the canoes a short distance, we pulled them from the water and only had a short distance to carry them. Back in the water, we had the opportunity to do a little surfing before heading down the river.

Fourteen crew members participated nearly every day. With three drivers required for the vehicles, that meant one canoe had only five paddlers. We were able to do a crew change every day giving the morning's drivers the opportunity to be replaced with three other people. Thereby everyone had the opportunity to paddle every day.

This morning's ground crew shopped for groceries. That left the afternoon ground crew responsible for checking in at the reserved campsite and be at the takeout with the canoe trailer when the canoes arrived. After checking in at the campground, Richard and Keith headed into Three Forks to check out the town. Bill found a nice, shaded picnic table near the take out and caught a few zzzzz's.
We ended the day camping where the Corp of Discovery camped on July 25-29, 1805. Clark commented that the nearby butte would make a good location for a fort. There was a trail from the campsite to the butte, but we did not attempt the hike...it had been a long and tiring first day.

Once the entire crew arrived at the campsite, it was time to setup tents, relax, have dinner and do camp chores. Chores completed, Kris, Sharon and Bill headed out to find the oldest geocache in Montana (GC493, Missouri Headwaters) which was located in the park. After a pleasant hike, the find was made and it was time to head back to camp for the team meeting to finalize Day 2's plans.
Day's Coordinates
Putin Highway 359 Bridge, Cardwell N 45 51.240 W 111 57.081
River hazard Old Hale Diversion Dam N 45 47.728 W 111 43.759
Crew Change Williams Bridge FAS N 45 48.106 W 111 41.792
Takeout Missouri Headwaters State Park; Madison River N 45 55.563 W 111 30.223
Campsite Missouri Headwaters State Park N 45 55.074 W 111 30.150
 
Introduction, The Crew, June 2, June 3, June 4, June 5, June 6, June 7, June 8, June 9, June 10, June 11, June 12, June 13
 
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