ST. JOHN RIVER WOLASTOQ BRIGADE

The reconstituted Amisk Lake Voyageurs reconvened at the Welcome Centre camping area, a field behind the Shogomoc Railway Museum in Florenceville-Bristol. Wayne, Marti, Sharon and Bill were joined by new team members Ellie James (co-captain, Victoria, BC), Sue Richards (Toronto, ON), David Cameron (Fredericton, NB) and Mac MacDonald (Sequim, WA). Sharon took on co-historian duties for this portion of the trip.

Some of the crews went into Florenceville-Bristol for dinner. The evening was spent visiting with old friends and getting to know the new faces.

The morning’s activities were up to each individual. Team members worked to get crew and personal gear ready for the first day of paddling. Time was spent visiting with other Brigade members, and attending the outstanding Florenceville/Bristol Canada 150 Events at Riverside Park. Entertainment included music from First Nations groups and community organizations. There was a play about the history of Wolastoq (St. John) River. Dignitaries were on hand and free hotdogs, chips, cake and drinks were served. Craft and food vendors were present in the park and along the road.

The afternoon festivities included recognition of veterans, more comments by community leaders and the official opening of the Brigade. Dressed in regalia appropriate to the area being represented by the teams, we followed bagpiper Jennifer McFarlane, a member of the Boona crew, into Riverside Park. Greetings and thank-yous were exchanged and Brigade flags and memorabilia were presented to local officials.

We were up at 5:30 for a 6:45 assembly. After breakfast (porridge, coffee, toast, etc.) and camp chores were completed, the last canoes were moved to the put in area. The water level is controlled by dam releases and it was much lower today than yesterday. That meant negotiating sharp and slippery rocks covered with mud.

Opening ceremonies were held on shore and the morning crew of Sharon (1), Bill (2), Marti (3), David (4), Mac (5) and Ellie (6) were on the water at 8:00. With the low water, care needed to be taken to avoid sandbars as we passed the many islands on this 24 km stretch of river. It was a good day for canoeing.

For this brigade, we had six paddlers, two ground crew and three vehicles. This required that one of the vehicles be left at the campsite and picked up by one of the ground crew. Fortunately the driving distances between campsites/crew change spots, were not too long. Today, Wayne, Sue, Mac and Ellie worked their magic.

The crew changed in Hartland where the world’s longest covered bridge crosses the St. John. Fruit and vegetable trays with dip, a red and white Canada 150 cake and water were provided by the town. The afternoon crew of Marti (1), Sue (2), Bill (3), Sharon (4), David (5) and Wayne (6) hit the water at 12:40.

The 21 km afternoon paddle was enjoyable as more participants were introduced to the mighty Saint John, a Canadian Heritage River.  It is named “Wolastoq” or “the good and bountiful” river by the Wolastoqiyik (Malisteet) people dating back 10,000 years.  This historic waterway was also traversed by the European explorers and settlers.  It was the key communication route between Upper and Lower Canada and the Atlantic and figured prominently in Canada’s history including the War of 1812.

From its origins in the deep woods of northern Maine, along the Maine /Quebec border through New Brunswick to the Bay of Fundy on the Atlantic coast, it travels 673 km, one of the longest rivers east of the Mississippi.  We were starting at the midpoint in New Brunswick, where the river dives into the rolling hills of the one of Canada’s largest potato growing districts. Here dam releases control the river flow so paddling was sweet and the weather just perfect this afternoon.

We began the day in the French Fry Capital of the World, Florenceville-Bristol.  A few on ground crew this fine afternoon visited the Hartland Covered Bridge Potato Chip Company.  Watching how potato chips are made, they learned how the humble potato impacted the survival of the settlers and the continued importance today.

The brigade arrived at the Woodstock Yacht Club dock about 4:30. The canoes were left there for the night. We proceeded to the Connell Park Campground, about 6 km away, where we stayed for the night. Many took advantage of the showers at the recreation center before heading to the Elks club where we were treated to an outstanding buffet. Following dinner there was a presentation on Heritage Rivers. After the dinner program, some visited the Connell House museum across the street from the Elks while others headed back to camp.

Once again we were blessed with beautiful weather for the nine canoes paddling 44 km to Nackawic. The morning crew of Wayne (1), Sue (2), David (3), Mac (4), Bill (5), and Ellie (6) departed about eight thirty from the Woodstock Yacht Club. The river was wide and had a nice current; we averaged about 6.5 km/hr. for the 19.3 km to the Meductic Wharf.

While the morning crew paddled to Meductic Wharf, Marti and Sharon took the trailer to the Nackawic campsite. Huge grins appeared on their faces as they approached a GIANT AXE standing 15 m (49 ft.) tall. The axe is said to be the largest axe in the world. It is a tourist attraction and is the center piece of the park that includes ball fields, an arena, hiking trails and picnic areas. Beautiful location. They then headed to the crew change/lunch site where a lunch was provided along with cake for dessert!

The 24.7 km afternoon leg was canoed by Sharon (1), Marti (2), Sue (3), Mac (4), Ellie (5) and Wayne (6). It was sunny and hot with giant billowy white clouds overhead.  The river was wide and calm and as always the canoes tended to be spread out with several of the more experienced crews out in front.  Well timed stops for water and snacking along with shore breaks allowed the group to muster.  Hard driving paddling caught the Ceyanna crew off-guard.  They landed on a giant underwater boulder and became grounded.  Lucky for them that it was flat as a pancake so Mary and Sarah jumped out to maneuver the craft off the behemoth.  We spotted families of people and dogs and mergansers with ducklings all enjoying a swim.  Inspired, several brigadiers decided to dive into the water to swim and cool down.

Bill and David picked up the camper and drove to the campsite at the Big Axe. The trailer and camper was parked along the edge of the ball field parking lot while Sue, David and Mac pitched their tents on the adjacent area and ballfield. Showers were available in the arena.

People started gathering for the Brigade’s arrival well before scheduled. The Brigade paddled past the crowd in single file with flags flying and assembled at the boat landing where they asked permission to come ashore. Once received they proceeded to disembark. The Brigade hosted a People in Boats program. Using two canoes. locals were given a chance to paddle the North Canoes; Ellie was one of the volunteers.

A community spaghetti dinner was served in the Lions Hall. And of course, there was more cake. After dinner, the community and brigadiers enjoyed local bands playing on the Axe stage until dusk. Their Canada Day fireworks display was rained out and were rescheduled for our arrival. We were treated to an outstanding fireworks display. Our campsite was located very near the rocket launch site. That gave us the opportunity to watch the fireworks being launched and to follow their arc skyward where they exploded brilliantly directly overhead…SPECTACULAR. Once the fireworks show was over, it was time to hit the sack…morning has a tendency to come so quickly on Brigades.

Note: Many communities throughout Canada received funding from the government for festivities celebrating Canada’s Sesquicentennial. Nackawic chose to reschedule their rained-out celebration in conjunction with our Brigade’s arrival on a WEDNESDAY.

The day started by being served breakfast at Lions Hall…juice, coffee, pancakes, sausage and more. The canoes were loaded and trailered around the Mactaquac dam to a landing near the Hart Island RV Resort and Campground. It was a short but memorable paddle (7.6 km) for today’s crew of Ellie (1) Sharon (2) David (3) Mac (4) Bill (5) and Wayne (6).

It was a memorable day in that we traded canoes with one of the PEI crews. We canoed the Mikmaq design canoe and they paddled the Amisk Lake Voyageurs canoe. The PEI canoe had a rounded bottom which made it much less stable than what we were used to canoeing. As a result our changes were much more measured and we were somewhat tense when paddling. Hats off to the PEI crews that routinely paddled this canoe.

The arrival time in Fredericton was set because of the dignitaries who were greeting us. About 1 km from the take out, we stopped at the Delta Hotels Fredericton so that we could arrive at the take out at the scheduled time. The crews, relaxed, got some refreshments and switched into regalia.

The Brigade arrived at Fredericton’s Small Craft Aquatic Center near Government House. Lieutenant Governor Jocelyne Roy-Vienneau, her husband Ronald, Maliseet Elders and others greeted the Brigade. Four members of the New Brunswick 1967 Centennial canoe race team were also in attendance. Remarks were made and we were welcomed ashore. We were then lead by our piper to Government House where we were served a light lunch of hot dogs, chips and drink.

Wikipedia gives has a short history of Government House

While we were canoeing the 7.6 km to Fredericton, Marti and Sue drove to Government House and awaited our arrival. After lunch, the trailer was moved to our camping spot on the Government House grounds and Sue and Bill went back to pick up the camper. Once camp was set up, the afternoon was free for us to explore.

Marti rode her bike, Mac investigated the town, Sue joined friends to visit local attractions and Sharon, Elli, David, Bill and Wayne headed out to find ice cream. They struck gold at The Happy Baker. Fresh baked bread, ice cream cones AND a shared banana split. We visited with the owner and talked about the Brigade. As we were leaving, she graciously provided us with a couple loafs of bread.

From there, Wayne headed back to camp and the other four headed down town to meet David’s wife, Sadie. Just after we arrived, the 104th New Brunswick Regiment’s ceremonial changing of the guard took place. And would you believe Ellie and Sharon were picked from the crowd to review the guard? Imagine, one of the “enemy” reviewing the Guard! (The 104th played a key role in preventing the United States from advancing into Canada during the War of 1812.) Sue, Keith and Deb came by about that time and all had lots of fun and even found a geocache. Sadie joined us for dinner at a local establishment after which we walked along the river back to camp.

Today’s itinerary involved a 51 km paddle from Fredericton to Gagetown. The morning crew of Bill (1) Sue (2) Marti (3) David (4) Ellie (5) Sharon (6) was on the water at seven. It was a 21.6 km reach to lunch at Burton Wharf. There were several big islands in this section of the St. John and some sections reminded one of wilderness lake canoeing. You had to constantly work to discern if the next shore feature was an island or a peninsula. Good places to stop for a break were far and few between. Eventually, the much needed biobreak stop was found and the location was less than ideal. The shore was very muddy and slippery and at least one person got stuck in the muck and ended up in it.

This stretch of the river is wonderfully wide and fast moving and paddlers eased up and enjoyed the views.  As we approached our crew change / lunch spot at the Burton Courthouse Wharf we spied a magnificent steel arch bridge aptly named the Burton Bridge.

The Amisk crew was the lead for the day and we spread the word that we would arrive in our “String of Pearl” formation.  Although the current was swift we managed a nice wide arc and were able to get all ten canoes into a mighty fine circle before Louise Bentley as ground crew manager directed each and every boat into a position along the wharf so that we could listen and partake in the First Nations smudge ceremony.

We were greeted at Burton Wharf by First Nation’s elders and singers. They welcomed us ashore and gave us blessing for a safe journey. It was delicious pizza for lunch and of course the New Brunswick celebratory CAKE. One of the locals that welcomed us brought along their baby rehab raccoon. All, especially the wide-eyed children were fascinated.

Wayne and Mac took the trailer to Gagetown. They arrived before the camp site was open but were able to park the trailer in a parking lot behind the Town office. They then drove to the crew change/lunch location. The Town Office location proved usable for the team and we quickly staked out our spots and set up camp.

The afternoon crew of Sharon (1) Sue (2) David & Jane (3) Marti (4) Mac (5) and Wayne (6) canoed the remaining 29.6 km to Gagetown. The beautiful weather continued and they took their break on a sandy beach where many of the paddlers enjoyed a swim to refresh and remove some of the morning mud. The canoes landed at the Rotary Park landing where they were left overnight. One of the teams camped there for security.

Gagetown is a quaint historic town including what is believed to be the oldest building still standing in New Brunswick. A delicious dinner was served at Gulliver’s World Café on the river. Dinner was served on the porch with additional tables set up in the yard. Fiddle music was provided by Alex Banks who walked among the tables while playing. Alex’s parents were Brigade paddlers.

Breakfast of pancakes, sausage, bacon, coffee, orange juice and more was served by the fine folks of the Gagetown Legion. They were expecting us at eight, we started arriving before seven. Oops, communications breakdown. Once more the brigade showed its flexibility. While some of us early birds relaxed outside, Ellie noticed the seniors in the kitchen were shorthanded. She jumped right in and helped with the cooking. It wasn’t too long before the brigade had been fed and we were at Rotary Park ready to get on the water.

The sun was shining brightly and the St. John River was as smooth as glass for Marti (1) Sue (2) David & Diane (3) Mac (4) Sharon (5) and Ellie (6). Each and every North Canoe and crew reflected in its waters.  Eagles and osprey and the ever present cormorants could be spotted along the way.  White washed clapboard structures dotted the shorelines identifying river communities.  It was very hot and the river so inviting that several paddlers opted to jump overboard and take a short swim to cool down.

While the team was canoeing the 20.2 km to the lunch and crew change at Hampstead Wharf, Wayne and Bill moved vehicles. We camped at Kiwanis Oak Point Campground. The large field was on a peninsula with a light house at its point. Spacious to say the least. We were one of the first to arrive and were able to get a beautiful spot with trees for welcome shade. The campground had all the amenities you would expect plus a very nice beach for swimming and walking and enjoying the river.

Once again, a delicious lunch was served at the crew change point. It was an old ferry site with a light house close by. Many “Save Our Ferry” signs were seen along the roads. Apparently, New Brunswick is closing several of the small ferries on the St. John, a move many of the residents are opposed to.

With tummies full, the afternoon crew of Sue (1) David (2) Marti (3) Sharon (4) Mac (5) Ellie (6) left for the final 17.2 km to Oak Point Campground. Bovine critters were spotted along shore and even on the islands.  We were told by the folks from New Brunswick that the farmers ferry their cows out to the island for the summer to graze.

Continuing downstream at a nice pace we came across one of the ferries still in service at Westfield.  Spotted from afar it was mesmerizing watching the ferry traverse back and forth across the wide expanse of river.  As we approached, patience was needed not to impede the ferry progress or get entangled in the cable.  A welcome shore bio-break was taken at the ferry terminal before we headed downriver to our destination camp for the night.

Canoes were landed beachside at our exceptional campsite at Oak Point.  Folks quickly set up camp donning summer sandals and light clothing on this hot evening.  There was a bit of yoga, some nice hikes along the beaches and to get a closer look at the lighthouse and then the never ending sharing of wonderful stories and more.

Sue, Dave, Ellie, Sharon and Bill raided the pantry and came up with an outstanding Asian chicken stir fry meal with coconut milk, spicy sauce and a vegetable filled salad.  Delicious! The time after dinner was spent relaxing in camp. Showers, geocaching, visiting and just plain taking it easy made for a mighty fine summer evening.

The last full day of canoeing started at the Oak Point Campground and ended at the Royal Kennebecasis Yacht Club in St. John. While the St. John River is affected by the tide as far up as Fredericton, about 120 km upstream, it is most definitely felt here. There is even an Earthcache (type of geocache) that requires measuring the current at a buoy located just off the point. After breakfast and breaking camp, the morning crew of Bill (1) David (2) Sue (3) Marti (4) Sharon (5) and Ellie (6) left before eight. Of course, the first item of business was to make the necessary measurements so Bill and Sharon could claim the Earthcache. By then, the rest of the brigade was on the water and we headed down the even bigger and ever wider St. John River.

The St. John on this reach was extremely wide and it often felt like we were paddling a big lake.  But the current was swift and the weather cooperative. Trains sounded their horns along the route as the usual rail road tracks followed the route of the river downstream.

Twenty two kilometers later, they arrived at the Brundage Point River Centre in Grand Bay-Westerfield. Food vendors had a variety of booths and water and strawberry shortcake dessert were free to the Brigade. The KV Country Band provided lunch-time entertainment.

While the team was canoeing to the crew change / lunch spot, Wayne and Mac took the trailer to the athletic field at the University of New Brunswick, St. John where the brigade camped. As was done for all days on the St. John Brigade, the trailer was moved to the next campsite and Sue’s car was used to get the camper.

After lunch, Marti (1), Sue (2), Mac (3), Diane (4), David (5) and Wayne (6) canoed the final 11.9 km to St. John.

Reversing Falls. A series of ledges creates rapids/falls as the St. John River enters the Bay of Fundy. At high tide, the water flows into the St. John. At low tide, the river flows into the Bay of Fundy. Slack tide is when there is minimum water flowing in either directions and at that time, boats and canoes can traverse the falls.

All of the North Canoes were filled to the gunwales with paddlers sharing seats on this final day.  Certainly all wanted to be part of the final day of canoeing into the Grand Finale Welcome in St. John but also because we were going to experience the phenomenon of canoeing through the “Reversing Falls”.  The morning was beautifully sunny with brilliantly white puffy clouds.   The teams gathered at the Royal Kennebecasis Yacht Club and began to locate optimum loading spots along the docks for gear and paddlers.  Ellie (1), David (2), Sue & Marti (3), Bill & Sharon (4), Mac (5) and Wayne (6) were in the Amisk Lake Voyageurs canoe. A look out into the St. John River let us know that the wind was up and the river was churning some choppy waves.  With much anticipation we headed out following the lead boat, a group of locals who have previously experienced the passage through the Reversing Falls.  The shoreline had tree studded hills with some rocky outcrops.  There were homes and businesses along the way.  Diligent attention was needed to make our switches in the wind and waves.

Our first stop was made at a boat launch where the boats gathered and final instructions relayed. Tides here at the Reversing Falls (actually the Reversing Rapids) rise and fall dramatically.  The passage to the Bay of Fundy at this point narrows with a greater sloping gradient. The Brigade Water Captain and the Lead Canoe explained that there is approximately a 20 minute window called “Slack Tide” that allows safe passage for all watercraft.  The times are based on:

Low slack, add 3 hours and 50 minutes to low tide
High slack, add 2 hours and 25 minutes to high tide

Calculations were made and the estimated time was near 1:00 pm.  The Brigade was told to hug the left shore so as not to be carried to the right channel where the motorized craft were waiting to make the crossing.   We inched our way forward hugging the left shore.  The current was strong and we again were instructed to stop and wait.  As the tide was being carried out large groups of cormorants and seagulls descended on the shallows to fish.  Patiently we waited keeping the bow facing down river and back paddling to remain relatively stationary.

At long last, the lead boat sounded the call and the crews moved forward through the waters that had become calmer.  Once in the rapids the boils and churning whirlpools strongly reminded us of the power of the tides over the rocky canyon below.

The Brigade, all smiles and full of excitement, continued the short paddle to the huge crowd that had gathered at the St. John Wharf to welcome us.  Because it was low tide we were positioned well below the cheering crowds, dignitaries and reporters above us.  The word was given and we positioned our paddles to give our last Voyageur Salute.  The crowd cheered.  Paddlers strained our necks upwards to see and hear the celebration.  The Water Captain had to loudly shout his request for us to come ashore.  Permission was granted by the mayor of St. John and we headed to the nearby boat launch.

With the taking out of the canoes at Long Market Wharf in St. John, the St. John River Wolastoq Brigade came to an end and many teams headed home. Those that stayed at the University campground a second night were primarily teams headed to the Confederation Brigade on PEI.

Some researched background: The phenomenon of the Reversing Falls is caused by the tremendous rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy, which are the highest in the world. The natural southward-facing opening of the Bay of Fundy receives the on rushing ocean tides directly like a funnel. The tidewater is normal when it enters the bay at its widest point. But the farther up the bay it travels the more it changes. It is, in effect, squeezed by the ever-narrowing sides and the constant shallowing of the bottom forcing the water higher up the shores. The low tide running out of the bay collides with the new, incoming high tide, combining forces to make a higher wave coming in. The combination of wave forces is called resonance.

The Bay of Fundy tides are a result of the tidal action originating in the Southern Indian Ocean sweeping around the Cape of Good Hope and then northward into the Bay of Fundy. They are also affected by the distance of the moon from the earth at this longitude. Here in Saint John, the bay tides rise 28 ½ feet. When the tide is low, the St. John River, 450 miles long, empties into the bay. Between Fallsview Park and the Pulp Mill, the full flow of the river thunders through a narrow gorge. An underwater ledge, 36 feet below the surface causes the water in the river to tumble downward into a 175-200 foot deep pool below the mill and under the bridge. The water then boils in a series of rapids and whirlpools.

As the bay tides begin to rise, they slow the course of the river and finally stop the river's flow completely. This short period of complete calm is called slack tide. It is only at this time that boats are able to navigate the Falls. Shortly after this slack tide the bay tides become higher than the river level and slowly, at first, the river begins to flow upstream. As the bay tides continue to rise, the reverse flow gradually increases and the rapids begin to form, reaching their peak at high tide. The effect of this reversal is felt upstream as far as Fredericton, more than 80 miles inland. At this point the tidal waters are actually 14 ½ feet higher than the river.

After high tide the bay tides begin to fall and the upstream flow of the river gradually lowers until the bay tides fall to the level of the river - once again resulting in another slack tide. The river then resumes its normal course and begins to flow back out of the bay. The bay tides continue to fall below the level of the river until at low tide the rapids are again at their peak, flowing down stream. At this point the tidal waters are 14 ½ feet lower than the river level. The tide rises and falls once about every 12 and a half hours. Today the times of interest were high tide (7.7 m/25.2 ft) at 11:26, low tide (0.9 m/2.9 ft) at 5:40 and slack tide at 1:47.

Ellie and Mac left the team this morning. Ellie was headed home to help her sister move from her farm. Ellie’s skills, attitude, team spirit and commitment were invaluable to our team. She gave so much.

Mac will be spending time in the Maritimes before heading home. He was a master at finding out things about the area – the people, history, local personalities, what was happening and so much more. That is an asset that is hard to replace.

The rest of us packed up and headed out to explore New Brunswick from St. John to the Cape Tormentine campground where the canoe crossing of the Confederation Brigade will start.